As promised, I'm letting you in on my new seaming/anti-seaming finishing process as it occurs on my latest project!

I had heard about this thing called a "three needle bind-off" and how great it was, so I wanted to learn how to do it.  I found dozens of places telling me how to actually bind off the stitches together, and will be bringing you my experience with that later, but I couldn't find anywhere to tell me how to knit the front and back so that I ended up with my shoulder stitches waiting to be knit, instead of bound off.

Here's what I mean: to use the three needle bind-off, you must have the shoulder stitches for both back and front "live" on the needles, so that you can knit them together.  So how does one finish the pattern after the beginning of shoulder shaping, and still keep those stitches live?

When in doubt, I turn to Ravelry, and as usual, it hasn't let me down.

The lovely Neen offered this cogent explanation:

When it says to bind off, don’t…just count off the number it says, and place a marker, then finish the row. On the next row, do the same for the other should, but stop knitting when you hit the first marker. Remove the marker, W&T (pass the yarn between needles to the other side, slip the stitch, pass the yarn back, replace stitch on left needle, turn work, pass the yarn to where it needs to be for the next stitch, if necessary). Knit the number to be bound off, place marker….keep going! When you have finished all the rows, you have a bunch of stitches that were wrapped, and a bunch of live stitches.

To the left, you can see how this looks on my current project (a delicious sweater from a 40's McCall's)!  When I reached the first row of shoulder shaping I was told to BO 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows.  So here's what I did:
1. I did not bind off.  That's right, I ignored the pattern.  It did hurt, just a little bit.
2. I knit in pattern for six stitches, then placed a marker.
3. I knit across the row and turned.
4. I knit in pattern for another six stitches, then placed another marker.
5. I knit across the row to my first marker and stopped, removed the marker, wrapped a stitch, and turned.

The picture to the left is just after I've wrapped the stitch, and am getting ready to turn the work.  I had now reserved 6 sts at each end of the row, so it was time to move onto the next shoulder shaping directions, which were to BO 4 sts at beg of next 10 rows.  So, after I turned, here's what happened:
1. I knit in pattern for four stitches, and replaced my marker
2. I knit in pattern across to the second marker I placed above (you are only ever working with two markers - one for each side - so you just knit across until you hit the one on the other side)
3. Removed the marker, wrapped and turned
4. Knit four stitches in pattern and replaced the marker
5. Knit in pattern across to opposite side's marker...

And repeat!

And as promised, after I had reserved all the stitches that I was instructed to bind off, I was able to bind off for the neckline, and what remained were two sets of live shoulder stitches, as you can see above.  So, onto the stitch holders they go, until the front is complete!

There are few things more frustrating for a knitter than finishing a project and finding:

A. It doesn't fit like it was supposed to (or like it would have when you began)
and/or
B. Your finishing skills are not up to par with your knitting skills.

For a long time I fell into this latter category, and in many ways am still learning all the tricks of the trade, so to speak.  What is important to remember, I think, is that there are a number of different types of seams possible for any garment, and that different pieces of the garment (obviously) require different kinds of seams.

In this, our vintage magazines can be of little to no help, as they unanimously advise you to simply "sew" seams.  Those magazines that do offer suggestions invariably suggest the backstitch, which, we will see below, may or may not be entirely appropriate.  So I thought I'd do a wee series on seams - my on-again/off-again love affair with the mattress stitch; my confusion and headaches over the kitchener stitch; the revelation of the three-needle bind-off; and my continued adoration of Barbara Walker, this time specifically for her inset sleeve instructions.

But to begin, our modern knitter must ask him/herself whether they actually care to seam at all!  I have a somewhat unusual opinion about this, so I oughtta let the cat out of the bag with it upfront:
I seam, and don't seam.  On the same sweater (gasp!)

Ok, it's neither that unusual, nor that big of a deal, but here's where I'm comin' from:

1. I am good at side seams.  The mattress stitch takes me forever , and I maintain that it is nowhere near as easy to match up "stitch for stitch" as many people would have you believe.  Nor is it all that easy to see "that little bar between the stitches" that you're supposed to work through.  I have twice been so focused on matching up stitches that I've found, at the end, that I've made a mess of the whole thing.  Two pieces that were blocked to the same size came out all wonky, with bunches and stretches along the side.   But, I digress, because the point of this bullet point is that I've gotten better at the little b*stards, and can actually complete a full mattress-stitch side seam without ruining the garment.  It takes me most of an afternoon, but it's done.
          1a. I believe the side seam is crucial to the fit of the garment.  Without that weight at the sides, it is very difficult for a garment to look fitted at all, unless you are willing to knit in the round with significant shaping and a negative ease. 

2. I am horrible at shoulder and sleeve seams. All the visible and (supposedly) invisible shoulder seams in the world have let me down time and time again.  I end up with the thickest, bulkiest, ugliest seam you can imagine.  Now, to be fair, if you follow the links above, you will see photographs of both of these techniques worked beautifully.  I am not suggesting that there is something wrong with the techniques, but there is definitely something wrong with the combination of those techniques and yours truly.

3. I am ill-acquainted with knitting on more than two needles.  Which becomes an issue when contemplating knitting everything in the round.  Sleeves will eventually have to be knit on three or four double-pointed needles, since their circumference eventually becomes too small for one set of circular needles.  I have seen this technique demonstrated, and understand how it works.  I'm fairly confident I could master it - but then again, I don't happen to own any DPNs, and I am all about making due with what you've got, rather than accumulating stores and stores of gadgets.

All of which brought me to my conclusion, which I am currently testing on my current project:

• I use a three-needle bind-off for the shoulders
• Pick up stitches for the sleeves, but knit them flat, instead of in the round
• Pick up stitches for any collars or necklines (where appropriate, and not knit as part of the original garment)
• And finally sew the side seam from sleeve cuff to waist-band.

So, having brought you along on my journey to this conclusion, I'll be bringing you the step-by-step process of my first full attempt at this finishing style, as it hits my needles.

I was so pleased to pop onto Ravelry and see that user TracyTriumph had uploaded photos of her completed "Simple Shrug", a pattern we offer right here at Sweater Girl Knits!


I asked Tracy to tell me a little bit about her experience knitting from the vintage pattern, and she reports that the title "Simple Shrug" is well earned.  Tracy says "It was really fun, easy and very quick to knit.  At the time I was knitting it I was selling my house, quitting my job and moving to another country.  So I needed some knitting which would soothe me and wouldn't tax my brain too much.  This project was perfect for that."  Phwew, that's what I call a committed knitter!  With back-to-school time upon us, I know many of us could use a little "soothing" right about now.


Tracy's Ravelry profile shows that she is a prolific knitter, and she confesses to being "a knitter of some experience with vintage patterns," and she found this useful when it came time to choose a yarn for the project.

The Simple Shrug is a very straightforward pattern, knit in one piece with only a couple of seams, but it claims to be "one size fits all," and doesn't include a gauge.  The vintage yarn suggested, Orlon Pompadour, was a fingering weight yarn, which would have made its stitch gauge between 7 - 8 sts / inch.

Tracy decided to use a lovely, bright Sport Weight yarn, which knit up beautifully, but she reports that she finds the shrug's fit a bit loose, and that she intends to knit it again in a fingering cotton yarn.


I think Tracy's fiber and color choices perfectly compliment the shrug's Fall and Spring short-sleeved style.  I can see Tracy wearing this over sun dresses, tank tops, and t-shirts; with jeans, or with a casual skirt.  In her accomplished hands, this vintage pattern has been turned into a stylish gem!


You can buy the Simple Shrug pattern here, and be sure to tell us if you've recently completed a Sweater Girl Knits project, we'd love to feature you as well!

There are few things that I like more than sitting on my couch and watching old movies while I knit.  The sonorous tones of 1930's and 40's fellas, that high-falutin' mid-Atlantic accent, and the sweet sound of my cat gently snoring on the cushion next to me are a comfort and joy that makes me smile every time I think of it.


Since I find vintage movies so inspiring, perhaps you will, too!  And most of these are available via Netflix, so you should check them out if you get the chance.



First up, my most recent view:

 Sherlock Holmes and the Secret Weapon [1942]
Basil Rathbone, Nigel Bruce and Lionel Atwill

For the initiated Holmes-ian, this tale is chock full of the old standbys: secret codes, cutting edge sleuthing technology, Holmes captured (!), Holmes escaping (!!), and that evil academic: Professor Moriarty.  And it's all wrapped up in a lovely little wartime theme:


Watson: Things are looking up, Holmes, this little island's still on the map.
Holmes [with feeling]: Yes ... this fortress built by Nature for herself ... this blessed plot, this earth, this realm, this England."
[Cue patriotic wartime band, fleet of fighter pilots, and credits]

I was convinced that Holmes's final line should be, "... this blessed plot, this [insert other historic empire [Perth? arg!]], this Rome, this England [cue SGK's treatise on colonial imperialism]" but IMDB swears to me that the words are "earth" and "realm."


Pish, that's far less interesting!


But what is interesting is, of course, the movie's wartime politics.  Filmed before the detonation of the atomic bomb, it examines the trouble with the technology of mass destruction: it might be aimed at you.  A fearless Allied scientist has made a breakthrough, but that wicked Moriarty is willing to sell it to the Germans!  The movie's final lines are nothing but confident: we are still standing, and not going anywhere.  Ordained by Nature herself, this fortress is still in control of its own destiny.


But Holmes's words, backed by the sound of war ships and war planes, sound more like a nation gritting its teeth and digging in its heels than a sovereign nation confident upon their throne.  Throughout, the film's tone belies its final confidence.  In shadows, gestures, expressions, a slow but steady question steadily ticks: What if?  What for?  What then?


This isn't one of dear Sherlock's more glamorous adventures, and I find the film's fashion to be run-of-the-mill.  But in its subtleties, and in its dialogue, I think it may just be one of the best of the Rathbone years.


Cheerio, chaps.

Today (or, tonight ... what time is it, exactly?) I began knitting a super secret project.  Since I am chronically unable to get to sleep before 3:00 AM, I've been making myself useful in the wee morning hours.


In my searchings, I stumbled upon The Design Studio and their beautiful website.  It's given me the inspiration to look again for new website design templates.  I do this occasionally, and always come back to the classic white.  And I can't quite decide if I like the thought of the blog being different from the rest of the website.


Either way, the site is sure worth a look, so check it out!

Catastrophe has struck.

Front, back, and sleeves knitted and blocked?  Check.

Shoulder seams?  Check.

Set in sleeve?  Ch- ... UnCheck.

You can see it, can't you.  Right there, where the left side of the sleeve should be fitting nicely into the back, it just plain doesn't match.  I stare.  I scramble.  I sigh.  Somehow, someway, I have managed to knit a front and back that do not match. 

I used a row counter. 
I followed the pattern. 
I screwed up anyway.

What happened, you ask?  I have no idea.  Do I have the mental fortitude to investigate and resolve the problem right now?  Not even close!  I'm blue, horribly blue, because this was the first sweater I've knit that had a real life pattern stitch involved.  No more geometric ribbing, this was a zig-zag pattern stitch, and I managed to make it through two fronts without screwing up the pattern at all, only to be bested by the back!  The back, I say!  It's the easiest piece!

But wait, it gets worse:
To console myself I decide to begin a top-down raglan in a beautiful, buttery merino I have been saving, to make myself feel better.  No finishing, no chance I'm going to make it all the way to the end only to find out I screwed up the first piece I knit.

I go to my addi-clicks, looking for the little cord, and a set of No. 9's, only to find that all but the long cord are not in their place.  And I have no idea where they could have gone since none of my current projects are on my addi-clicks. 

Are they here somewhere?  Of course.  Can I find them this instant when I want them most?  Of course not.

Oh, life, you pesky pickle!

Are you in the Lexington, KY area?  If so, you have three options to take a class with yours truly!


The MadMen Look: Knitting a Vintage Sweater
The Stitch Niche, off Nicholasville Rd.
Fall 2010

This several weeks long course will take you through this project from beginning to end.  Every few weeks we will meet to check progress, discuss upcoming steps, answer questions and provide inspiration.  If you have ever wanted to knit a vintage sweater, but were frightened off by the weird sizes and a miniscule gauge, this is the place to start!  This sweater is knit in Sport Weight yarn (not fingering!), and is simple but results in a distinctive style.  Contact The Stitch Niche for further information.

Knitting Basics
Lexington Public Library, E. Main St.
October 9th, 2010 1:00 - 3:00 PM

Basic knitting instruction for beginners.  Whether you've never seen a knitting needle, let alone picked one up, or you've forgotten all that your grandmother taught you, this class will teach students all they need to get knitting.  Students will learn the proper technique for the foundations of all knitting projects: casting on, binding off, knitting, purling, stockinette and garter stitches, plus some additional skills such as ribbing and shaping, if time allows. 


Crochet Basics
Lexington Public Library, E. Main St.
October 23rd, 2010 1:00 - 3:00 PM

Basic instruction for those new to crochet.  Students will learn the foundations of all crochet projects: chains, single- and double-crochet, plus basic joining.  Students will learn these foundational techniques while learning to make one of the classic crochet staples, the Granny Square, which can be used for a variety of projects.

Yesterday was a stellar day.  I got moved into the new place, finally updated the blog, and received word from Yarn Forward Magazine that Sweater Girl Knits would be receiving a mention in their next issue!  What type of mention, you ask?  Your guess is as good as mine, but you can bet I'll be updating you on just what they have to say as soon as I know.  Here's hoping we haven't been named in a feature such as "Websites to Avoid," or "How Not to Keep a Blog."

I do not have the privilege of a subscription to any knit/crochet/craft magazine, so I am excited to have the opportunity to check this one out.  From their website this magazine looks like it's filled with beautiful patterns every month, and to be worth a look, so check them out!

Surely I haven't lost more than two months to goodness-knows-what, right after a post about my newfound freedom and all the awesomeness that was going to be added to the site?  That would be preposterous!


Preposterous indeed, and yet ... too true.  Unable to find anyone who would hire me for the summer and give me about five weeks vacation for wedding and honeymoon, I have been living the truly vintage life:  I have been a housewife.  The first two weeks were impossibly boring.  I spent the majority of my time sitting and ... you know, thinking about stuff that maybe I could do.  But then I finally got off my tuckus and started doing some of them.  


I planted a fall weather vegetable garden, and learned to hate those cute little bunnies hopping around my yard, in addition to numerous insects.  I discovered my local indoor flea market and lost numerous hours taking notes upon all the furniture my new husband and I could use, only to have him inform me that he doesn't like huge categories of furniture like "wavy edges" (a.k.a. "scalloping") and "that color" (a.k.a. "oak").  But we did finally agree that we both sincerely enjoy either classic, chic country, or early 20th-century, and managed to find several things that we could agree upon, whence commenced the great wood cleaning project of 2010.


With a visit from my mother I dove into the world of chemical varnish strippers and will hopefully soon report that I've saved a beautiful coffee table from a serious attack of shiny plastic finish.


And today we finally have all of our possessions in the new place, and I feel like I might just be able to uphold my obligations to this here website once again.  I've promised new patterns, new yarns, and new updates, and I intend to deliver!


Here's to summer!

Oh my goodness, has it been so long?  Here I was doing so well, then swoop! there went the last two weeks, right out from under me.  I blame many things, but particularly the end of the semester.  Grading and writing for myself - it never seems to end!  So, instead of blogging I've been stressing, and scrambling, but the end is finally in sight!  Only .. oh wait, I haven't mentioned wedding planning!  That's right, yours truly is getting hitched, and soon!

So I've also been running around town in ridiculous outfits, being good-naturedly picked on by drag queens (long story - don't ask). 

But I have at least gotten back in the knitting groove.  I am one side away from a completed cardigan, and have the itch to start something new.  But no, no, I say to myself ... finish the one before you start the other or you'll end up with pieces sitting in a bag for months.  What, me?  I would never do something so stupid.  I have big plans for the summer, but I would hate to share them with you in the event that they fall through.  This way, every thing that I accomplish will seem like I'm going above and beyond, because you all can't see how very far from the imagined horizon I have truly fallen.  Classic.